Amidst the green hills and mist-laden valleys curved in the natural canvas of northeast India, where every river carves stories and forests whisper traditions, pork is a flag bearer of the ethnic food traditions of the various tribal communities. Pork is not considered a hated/left-out dish here or the food of a marginalised community as in mainland India. Here, pork stands as a testament to their cultural relevance, their identity and a definer of their community recipe, which is unique for different tribes. From the fiery smoked pork of Nagaland to the Wahan Mosdeng (pork salad) of Tripura to the Dohneiiong (pork with black sesame seeds), its significance lies at the heart and soul of the tribal cuisines and storytelling across the region.
More Than Meat: Pork as a Cultural Expression
Pork can be marked as a symbol of cultural food heritage across generations in the tribal societies of the northeast. For the many indigenous tribes in the northeast, like Nagas, Mizos, Kukis, Hmars, Khasi, Garos, etc, its dietary relevance is intrinsically woven in their cultural and social fabric (Donoghue & Khiangte, 2022). It’s just not merely food, it’s a ritual, invoking a sense of communal connection – and a culinary heritage served on a plate. Its diversified presence ranges from life events to weddings to harvest festivals to even funerals in this region. To rear pigs is a symbol of social prestige and affluence in society (Singh & Singh, 2007). Different cooking methods, meat cuts or even the condiments like fermented soyabean or dried chilli flakes or any other traces the very culinary identity of the tribe and their interaction with the environment. Ritual sacrifices of pigs are still very much prevalent among the several tribes of northeast highlighting their enduring link between pork and cultural rites (Sitlhou, 2020).
The very culinary form of pork takes different forms of dishes for different tribal communities, with the infusion of their local herbs and medicinal plants, and this practice is constantly evolving. Some good dietary diversity studies of pork alone among the different tribal communities in this region can be taken up. Pork is celebrated in myriad forms like smoked, stewed or dried or pickles infused with different herbs, reflecting the region’s resourcefulness and deep connection with nature.
A Flavour That Unites
From the iconic smoked pork with bamboo shoots of Nagaland to Mizoram’s vawksa rep to Arunachal Pradesh’s pika pila, pork-based items are central to the culinary delight of the tribals. The specific flavours infused in the dishes generate their unique taste and aroma.
Pork plays an important role in the cuisine of tribal functions and gatherings and consumed collectively promoting communal harmony and creating its special place in the socio-cultural strata. It’s taste unifies communities hence promoting social harmony among the tribals.
A Taste of Identity
In the tribal belts of the northeastern hills, cuisine is very strongly attached to their identity. The preparations, meat cuts, edible portions, cooking style, and condiments used are all acts of their specific cultural affirmation. When the northeastern people move to metropolitan cities like Delhi or Hyderabad, it is pork that they crave most for the meaning and cultural association it carries. Nowadays, northeastern restaurants and cloud kitchens are coming up in big cities, like Delhi’s Humayaunpur, acting as a cultural ambassador for northeastern cuisine.
Modern Shifts and Culinary Revival
Culinary revival of the pork dishes is coming up in a long way. Different entrepreneurs are coming up in through the Agri-business Incubation centre of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR)-National Research Centre on Pig. Guwahati is taking up the pork processing business on a commercial scale. Different startups are reviving the culinary delights of the northeastern region, like pork with bamboo shoots, pork with black sesame, and pork with kaji nemu (lemon) in ready-to-eat form. Young food entrepreneurs are launching some of the indigenous recipes from the hills with a little bit of fusion in cafes, resorts and curating culinary festivals. Cooking contests of pork-based dishes are also disseminating the culinary heritage and launching some fusional recipes. This revival of pork is just not about food, but reclaiming the cultural identity and countering cultural erasure. Pork nowadays is not just a meat of tribals, but people from all castes and creeds enjoy it with full endeavour. In big cities of the northeast like Guwahati, Agartala, and Dimapur, pork is much more enjoyed by people who may not be members of tribal communities.
Closing Thoughts
Food can divide or unite. In the case of northeast India’s tribal communities, pork bridges generations, anchors identities, and brings the soul of a people to the table. When we generally speak of the preservation of cultural identity of people, language, art, dance, songs, and costumes often take centre stage. But perhaps it’s time to recognise food, specifically pork, in the sociological inertia of northeastern culture as a vibrant identity of the tribal society.
For scientists and sociologists alike, the story of pork in northeast India is a compelling case study in how food can define, empower and sustain cultures nourishing both body and soul.
References
Sitlhou, H. (2020). Food culture and identity in Northeast India: Prospects for social science research. E-Journal of the Indian Sociological Society, 4(2), 49–66.
Donoghue, K. L., & Khiangte, L. (2022). A brief introduction to Mizo ethnic cuisine. IJFANS International Journal of Food and Nutritional Sciences, 11(S1), 2005–2010.
Singh, A., & Singh, R. K. (2007). Cultural significance and diversities of ethnic foods of Northeast India. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 6(1), 79–94.
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Priyojoy Kar works as a Scientist in the social science division of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR)-National Research Centre on Pig. Vivek Kumar Gupta serves as the Director of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR)–National Research Centre on Pig.